Agreed - and a bit of a risk taker. Enjoyed the photos!
You’ve got some good points there, Surfpainter. Nothing much is a sure thing in life. I’m certainly for people living their lives they way they truly want to. Didn’t mean to come across as though I was denigrating the surfer in question, or any other surfer. Wish I’d had the opportunity to try it when I was younger.
Great shots! So the dangerous risk taking water related accident happened last week in the Currituck Sound off Grandy, most likely in water less than 6’ deep. It did not involve a professional surfer in double overhead sets or a Darwin worshiping kiteboarder. Unfortunately it was a 19 yr old NC State student out on one of those old fashion paddle boats with a friend. It swamped and one of the boys succumbed to hypothermia (40 deg water) before help could arrive.........Very sad. Risk perception can be a very skewed concept. Have fun, stay safe